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March 2009
What can the average homeowner expect in energy tax credits now? Basically, if you spend $5,000 in 2009 and 2010 you can get a tax credit of 30%, or up to $1,500 on improvements that meet strict energy-efficiency standards. So if you’ve been planning on replacing a furnace, air conditioner, water heater, windows, or roof, up to 30% of the cost will come back to you as a reduction in your income tax*.
If you add solar to your home, the tax saving is even greater because there is no maximum cap on the credit (unlike the $1,500 above), and the credit is available longer- until 2016. The percentage of the credit is the same- also 30% of the cost. Unlike the “home improvement” items listed above, solar can be installed on ANY residence, not just your primary one. It can be a solar electric (photovoltaic) system, space heating or hot water heating system. At least half the energy used to heat the dwelling’s water must come from solar. Hot tubs and swimming pools don’t qualify for the credit.
Before you sign a contract for new equipment, take a look at the “fine print” of the law. It applies to the equipment only, and not the installation cost. So if replacing your furnace costs $5,000, and $1,000 of that is labor, you only get 30% of $4,000.
Each type of equipment must meet minimum standards set forth in the tax guidelines, for example a new air conditioner must have a SEER of 16+ and EER of 13+. You can check out ratings for any model at www.CEEDirectory.org, Consortium for Energy Efficiency. I entered the minimum SEER of 16 and EER of 13, and you get over 41,000 models to choose from. That seems like a lot, but when you enter the range of ratings lower than 16 and 13, the search yields a whopping 69,000 models. As more consumers choose the benefits of energy-saving models, manufacturers may phase out these less efficient ones.
And don’t buy any electric water heater expecting the credit-they don’t qualify. In our area, only the propane gas we use qualifies. Even very few gas water heaters with tanks qualify, but numerous tankless ones do, such as the Bosch 2700ES, Rinnai R75l or Takagi TK3. Properly maintained tankless water heaters will last twice as long as a tank model (which have jumped in price lately). They work better in warmer climates where the water coming into the house pipes is not so cold, like Tuolumne County, where the water averages about 60 degrees. A good website to compare models and prices is HouseNeeds.com.
In PML replacing windows will probably not be as popular an upgrade, because starting in 1978 windows in new houses had to be double pane glass anyway. Our oldest houses were built in 1970, so houses built between 1970 and 1978 with single pane windows are prime candidates for this upgrade and tax credit. Check for eligible models with your window company or on a manufacturer’s website- not all EnergyStar windows qualify. The window or door must have both a U Factor and SGHC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient) of .30 or lower. U-Factor is a measure of the window’s overall energy-efficiency. And the second measurement, a low SGHC, blocks the blistering summer heat, thereby reducing the load on your air conditioning. The Milgard and Andersen window websites list which of their products qualify. If you are replacing a sun-damaged exterior wood door that has suffered from South or West exposure, definitely look at metal options that you can get the tax credit on.
Roofs in Pine Mountain Lake are aging. Anybody who hasn’t yet replaced their fire-prone wood shake roof should do it now, and add extra insulation while you’re at it. Many asphalt composition roofs from the 70’s and 80’s are also due for an upgrade. Some new asphalt roofs with cooling granules qualify for the tax credit because they reflect the sunlight. The pigmented metal roofs that qualify require no maintenance and resist cracking, shrinking, high winds and wildfires. Many are made from recycled content. They can outlast the house they cover, and then are recyclable at the end. As an added bonus for re-roofing projects, metal roofing can often be applied over the original roof, saving removal and disposal costs and reducing landfill waste.
In 1985 we built a solar house with active solar radiant floors and hot water, plus passive solar design including concrete mass, eave overhangs, extra insulation and South window placement. A big incentive for us was that the federal solar tax credits of 50% expired at the end of 1985, and Reagan wasn’t going to renew them. Our active solar system cost $8,400 and we got $4,200 of that back as a tax credit. And over 18 years we saved thousands more in lowered energy bills.
For more information and easy-to-click-on links to detailed website pages, see below. Be cautious about other sites that are not updated, and only reference the federal Energy Policy Act of 2005, or The Energy Improvement and Extension Act of 2008, which are now superceded by the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009, passed February 17, 2009. Another good place to start is www.EnergyStar.gov.
Here’s probably the best chart detailing the federal tax credits for energy efficiency for all categories of improvements:
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_tax_credits
Next is the chart on the Alliance to Save Energy website of qualifying criteria for exterior windows and skylights, insulation and roofs, air conditioners and heat pumps, furnaces, and water heaters:
http://ase.org/content/article/detail/2654#HVAC_criteria
This is the site to see whether the air conditioner or heat pump you plan to buy meets the 2009 30% tax credit rules. Click on either the air conditioning or heat pump sections. A form allows you to fill in the minimum qualifying SEER of 16 and EER of 13, then Search!
http://www.ceedirectory.org/ceedirectory/pages/cee/ceeSearchMain.aspx
Good summary for the windows and doors that qualify:
http://www.articlesbase.com/remodeling-articles/energyefficient-window-and-door-tax-credit-for-2009up-to-1500-back-786183.html
Andersen windows tax credit page, with a link to their products that qualify. The window or door must have both a U-Factor and SHGC of 0.30 or lower:
http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/Satellite/AW/Page/awGeneral-3/1143432022798/
* A “tax credit” is not received when you buy the product, like an “instant rebate”. A credit is claimed on your federal income tax form at the end of the year and then increases the tax refund you receive, or decreases the amount you have to pay. It is more valuable than a “tax deduction”, such as for mortgage interest. If you are in the 30 percent tax bracket, your income tax is reduced by only 30 percent of the value of a “tax deduction”. But a “tax credit” reduces your federal income tax by 100 percent of the amount of the credit.
written by Lauree Borup
Here are some suggestions you might use to try and reduce the amount of water needed for your landscape plants, fruit trees or vegetable garden, and to keep them in a healthy, vigorous condition:
1. Use mulch around vegetable plants, flowers, trees and shrubs to prevent excess evaporation of moisture from the soil surface. Many different materials can be used for mulch – peat moss, compost, ground bark, lawn clippings, straw or even black plastic sheeting. When spreading this material around the base of the plants, especially trees and shrubs, be careful not to keep the material next to the trunk constantly wet. This could lead to a buildup of fungus organisms that cause crown rot disease.
2. Apply irrigation water in the evening or early morning to avoid water loss due to evaporation that will occur with midday watering.
3. Water infrequently, but deeply, for most plants. Shallow, frequent watering encourages shallow rooting, and roots close to the soil surface will dry out faster than those deeper in the soil. If your watering is controlled by an automatic timer, program it so that it does not turn the water on every day, and increase the length of watering time.
4. Destroy all weeds that may be competing with our desirable plants for moisture.
5. Do not use excessive amounts of nitrogen fertilizer. Some nitrogen is needed to keep plants in a healthy, vigorous condition, but excessive amounts will only produce lush growth that takes more water to maintain.
6. Remove excessive growth from trees and shrubs by pruning. Don't remove so much foliage that you risk putting your plants under stress, but if they are overgrown, do some careful, selective pruning.
7. lf your landscape trees have not been pruned in some time, this might be the year to consider having it done. Pruning of very large trees should probably be done by professional tree trimmers.
8. If you have dense, crowded stands of trees, shrubs or other plants, consider removing some to reduce the total amount of water needed and to keep the remaining trees or plants in a more healthy condition. Plants that are overcrowded compete with one another for space, light, air and nutrients, in addition to water, so it makes good sense to maintain proper spacing.
9. Use drought tolerant plants in your landscaping whenever possible. Contrary to common belief, there are some very attractive, interesting looking plants that don't require large amounts of water to grow and stay healthy. A water conservation garden doesn't have to look like a desert.
10. Reduce your plantings this year, or delay planting until fall. Take out unthrifty or non-essential plants.
11. Install a drip or low volume irrigation system. These systems not only conserve water, they reduce the population of unwanted weeds and actually are an improved method of watering many plants because they concentrate the water in the root zone.
12. Practice good pest and disease prevention and control measures in order to minimize problems that will lead to plant stress.
These and other ideas may be used to reduce your garden's demand for water and to help ensure your plants' survival during critical periods of water shortage.
UC Farm Advisor Don Appleton column
With winter coming, many people are worried about the stability of their trees.
Will they hold up to a strong wind storm? lf they fall, which direction are they likely to go? How can I tell if my trees are dangerous?
A professional arborist can visit your property and look for signs that a true is likely to topple.
Evidence of earlier root damage, roots pulling out of the ground, cracking in the soil around the root system all indicate a tree might be about to fall. Most problems can be traced to root-system injury. Trees with damaged roots might not show signs of damage for five, 10 or even 20 or more years after the injury.
Even trees that are attacked by insects, such as bark beetles, are often first weakened by root damage. Healthy trees with uninjured roots are better able to withstand wind stress, insects and fungus.
So how can you protect your trees from root damage?
Know your roots
First you have to know where the root system is in order to protect it. Because roots are difficult to see, few people understand how large a tree's root system can be. Many people picture a deep, carrot-like tap root that supports the tree and provides water and nutrients. In our area, with typical heavy clay soils, even trees that do form tap roots often find the soil just too hard to push through.
Most of the roots are in the top few inches of the soil. This top layer is the most biologically active. Soil microorganisms actively break down old leaves and organic matter. The tree finds the most nutrients here. It is also a zone where there is more oxygen.As you dig deeper, the soil becomes more compacted, less air is available, and not many nutrients work their way down. For these reasons, most of the active feeding roots will be in the first 12 inches or so of the soil.
Root-spread is difficult to determine. Much depends on the environment in which the tree grows – the soil, the surroundings and other plants nearby. There is a balance between the leaves overhead and the roots underground. Roots provide water and nutrients for the leaves to convert with sunlight to food in the form of carbohydrates. A mature tree can use hundreds of gallons of water on a hot summer day.
A rule of thumb is: A tree's roots will spread about 1 1/2 times the span of the branches. For a tree that spreads its branches 20 feet in one direction, you can expect the roots to spread 30 feet or more. If the roots are restricted in one direction by a building, foundation, road or driveway or other plants, the tree might adjust by spreading more roots farther in an unobstructed direction. As the tree grows taller, and the branches grow longer, the root system also must spread out.
Trees don't like change
Established trees often respond poorly to changes in their environment. It takes decades for a root system to develop. Consider potential impacts before building in the root zone of a tree you want to save: Construction impact can take many years to be recognized. A tree that normally would have lived for hundreds of years might only survive 20 or 30 years following root damage.
Soil compaction by vehicles, foot traffic, or animals can crush the fine roots responsible for most of the tree's nutrient and water uptake. Soil compaction also squeezes out the air and water the roots need to thrive. New roots have a much harder time growing through compacted soil, making it more difficult for the tree to recover from injury.
Cutting through the roots for utility lines or water lines can cause significant damage. Damage close to the tree is more serious than damage farther away. Root growth is similar to that of the branches – a thick root close to the trunk supports a large number of branching, fine roots farther from the tree. Also, cutting roots larger than about 1 inch in diameter can destroy a tree's ability to gather water and soil nutrients.
Changes in grade can cause serious tree injury, also. Moving soil around can affect the way water flows underground. Equipment will cut through root systems. Piling soil on top of roots reduces the amount of air. It could take decades for the roots to grow toward the surface – if they survive.
Covering the root system with structures – even decks suspended above the soil surface on piers – changes the conditions surrounding the roots. Decks and other structures result in cooler, moister conditions longer in the summer, also allowing soil organisms to grow for longer periods and attack root systems. Also, nutrients provided by leaf drop can no longer reach the soil surface. Soil microorganisms that process organic matter do not get the sunlight they need to work efficiently. All these factors together can cause the established roots under the deck to slowly use up the nutrients stored in the soil and eventually die.
Avoidance is best plan
Avoiding damage to root systems is the best method for keeping trees healthy and standing in strong winds.
During construction, temporary fencing around the root zone – 1½ times the branch spread – will help.
Never pile soil on roots or around tree trunks.
If you need to run water or utility lines, tunneling under the root system might save the tree.
Remember: Most of the roots are in the top 12 inches.
Being careful during construction costs more, but saving a large tree might be worth the effort.
Preventing root-system damage helps keep trees standing in strong winds.
From the Calaveras Farm Advisor, 2002
- Plant spring-blooming bulbs such as tulips and daffodils from September in the high country through December in the lower foothills.
- Rake leaves and dispose of them, preferably in a compost heap. Failing to rake leaves can result in dying or diseased lawn.
- Pull annual flowers and vegetables felled by frost. Put in compost heap. If you suspect disease, throw them in the garbage.
- Cut almost to the ground any perennials whose foliage has become unsightly.
- Weed. Fall action prevents weeds from getting a head start next spring, saving work in the long run
- Dig up tender bulbs. Store in vermiculite in a paper bag in a Cool, dry spot.
- Apply mulch to perennials where winter temperatures fall below minus 10 degrees. Use a lightweight organic mulch, such as shredded autumn leaves, pine needles or straw. Avoid compact mulches or whole leaves which can suffocate plants.
- Protect broad-leaved evergreens such as rhododendrons and holly with an anti desiccant spray to prevent water loss.
- Water evergreens and small trees and shrubs if the fall weather is especially dry.
- Dig up small annuals and herbs and plant them in pots to spend the winter in a sunny window inside.
Don't prune or fertilize plants at the end of their seasons. Either could promote tender new growth that will get nipped by the cold. The exception is trimming out dead or damaged branches or foliage.
The most obvious Mediterranean plants seen all over the foothills are lavender and rosemary There are many species and varieties within species of these two plant types that would do well in any foothills garden. But there are other plants that take full sun, need well-drained soil, require very little summer water once established and are deer resistant.
Let's start with the germanders: Germanders, are from the Mediterranean region of Europe and western Asia, which just happens to have the same type of climate as the foothills – rain in the winter and spring and dry in the summer.
Teucrium aroanium is a gray creeping germander that grows into a low mound with deep lavender-pink flowers. It is a lovely sun-loving ground cover. Once established, shear back in mid-spring to invigorate the plant. Mulch wtih gravel to reduce watering.
Teucrium fruiticans is a bushy evergreen shrub with white-woolly shoots and pale blue flowers. The leaves are gray-green and white-woolly on the underside, giving this shrub a gray overall look. It looks great next to an upright rosemary plant.
Teucrium chamaedrys in an evergreen sub-shrub with glossy, dark green leaves and pale pink to dark purple flowers. You can’t let this small shrub grow together to form a hedge or shear back every year to keep it low. All of these germanders need little water in the summer and look good all year long.
Here are a few more Mediterranean plants to look for in the nurseries:
Lamb's ear (Stachy's byzantina) – This gray, wooly-leaf plant is ideal as an edging or groundcover. It produces spikes of wooly, pink-purple flowers. The cultivar silver carpet has intensely silvered, grayish white leaves and does not flower.
Mugwort (Artemesia) – Many different species of this plant do well here in the foothills. The gray foliage is a great accent to the green leafed plants in the garden. Cut back in early spring to rejuvenate the plant.
Sage (Salvia species) – Sages are wonderful accent plants, as they seem to bloom on and on. l have several species in my garden including the native Bee's Bliss, a low-growing creeping gray sage with periwinkle blue flowers.
Hummingbird mint or hyssop (Agastache species) – This is not a Mediterranean plant, but because it looks so good with lavender and comes in so many flower colors, loves the sun and does well with low water, I just feel it must be included with this group of plants. Give Agastache well-drained soil and a nice gravel mulch and sit back and watch the hummingbirds when the plant comes into bloom.
This is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Mediterranean plants, but I think it will give you a starting point if you are planning a water-wise garden. Do note that most of these plants like a gravel mulch to help keep their roots cool and conserve moisture in the soil.
As beautiful as they are, deer can be very destructive to gardens, orchards and landscaped areas, particularly in foothills and coastal districts where nearby woodlands provide deer with cover. Deer may damage a variety of plants, including vegetables, fruit and nut trees, grape and berry vines, grasses and many ornamentals. They cause damage by eating as well as trampling crops. Young trees or shrubs may also be damaged when deer rub their antlers on trunks and limbs.
Mule and black-tailed deer are the two species common in California. These deer eat a variety of vegetation, including woody plants, as well as some grasses and forbs (small broad-leafed flowering plants). They also consume fruits, nuts, ornamental trees, shrubs, vines and garden vegetables.
Because most deer feed in the late evening and very early morning, it is not easy to observe them. A good way to determine their presence in the garden or orchard is to look for hoof prints. Deer hooves are split, pointed at the front and more rounded at the rear, and are about 2 to 4 inches long. Smaller deer scat is like rabbit pellets, but large males have solid scat like a big dog.
Legal Restraints
Deer are classified as game animals by the California Fish and Game Code. If you find them damaging property or crops, you may obtain a permit from your local game warden to control deer by shooting them, although this method is not generally recommended for the problems homeowners encounter. Other methods of destroying deer, such as the use of traps, poisons or toxic baits, are illegal.
Deterrents such as fences, barriers and repellents can all be used without a permit.
Control Methods
Properly built and maintained fencing is the most effective method for excluding deer. Deer normally will not jump a 6-foot fence for food, but if threatened, can jump an 8-foot fence on level ground. While 6-foot upright fences are usually adequate on level ground, a 7- or 8-footer is recommended, especially in the Sierra Nevada areas of California where larger deer are found.
On sloping ground, you may need to build fences 10 or 11 feet high to guard against deer jumping from above.
Determine the kind of fence you are going to build by assessing your needs, the expense, terrain and whether ore not they are allowed in your subdivision. Woven mesh wire attached the full height of the fence is preferable. If you need to economize, two or more strands of 9- or 10-gauge smooth wire can be stretched at 4 to 6 inch spacing above a 5 foot mesh. Vertical stays should not be more than 6 to 8 inches apart. There is no advantage to using barbed wire.
Because deer will crawl under a fence if they can, you should secure mesh wire close to ground level. An extra strand of barbed wire stretched along the ground will help keep deer from crawling under. Stake the wire firmly to the ground in any depressions between posts or fill the depressions with materials that will not deteriorate or wash away.
With upright fences, gate height should be approximately equal to fence height. Keep weight to a minimum. A light wooden frame over which mesh wire is stretched is often satisfactory. If you use factory-made aluminum gates, you may bolt or weld on metal extensions and stretch mesh wire over them. It is advisable to sink a metal or treated wooden base frame in the ground below the gate to make a uniform sill and to keep deer from working their way under the gate.
Other control methods
In many places, protecting individual plants may be more practical and economical than attempting to exclude deer from an entire area. For example, young fruit or nut trees in a home orchard can be individually fenced until primary branches grow above the reach of deer. Two or more wooden stakes can be driven into the ground, and chicken wire or heavier woven wire can be attached to form a circle around the tree. Plastic trunk protectors may be useful for young vines and trees. Inspect individual barriers regularly.
Various chemical repellents are available as a means of reducing or preventing deer damage to trees, vines and ornamentals. Deer repellents are distasteful materials that make the protected plants less desirable as food sources for deer. It is important to remember that repellent materials must be non injurious to the trees or shrubs. Also, do not apply repellents to edible crops unless such use is specifically indicated on the product label. Repellents are useful under some conditions. Most are not registered for use on food crops except during the plants' dormant season. They should be tested to make sure they are not phytotoxic (harmful to the plant).
When deer are hungry and a garden area contains highly preferred foods, repellents probably will not be effective. Repellents are ineffective with dense, severely competitive deer populations as well.
Deer, like all animals, have certain food aversions. Home gardeners living near a deer habitat can often take advantage of this by using deer-resistant plants for ornamental planting. Various factors can make a plant resistant to deer. Many of the most resistant plants (such as oleander) are poisonous, some at all times and others only at certain stages of growth. Palatability of non-toxic plants also varies with plant age and time of year.
A plant's resistance to deer is also related to the availability of other food. If there is an adequate supply of native plant food, ornamental plantings may be largely untouched.
If the naturally occurring plant food supply is low, there will be increased browsing in domestic gardens. If there is an extreme shortage of natural food, few plant species will be totally resistant to deer. A heavy deer population also increases competition for food, with the result that plants normally unpalatable to deer may be browsed.
*Try this homemade recipe to repel deer:
1 egg
½ cup milk
1 tablespoon cooking oil
1 tablespoon dish detergent
1 gallon water
Beat the egg and milk together, then add cooking oil and detergent. Add mixture to water and stir or shake well. Store in a covered 1-gallon container.
Apply liquid to plants (except for food plants) using a spray bottle. Reapply every 2 weeks or after heavy rains.
Bark beetles are some of the most destructive forest insect pests found in California and other western states. There are many different species of bark beetles, and normal population levels are usually found in most mature forests. However, under certain conditions favorable to the insects, serious epidemics periodically develop from these normal infestations. During these outbreaks, large numbers of trees may be destroyed over a wide area.
Generally, healthy, vigorously growing trees are able to withstand normal levels of bark beetle infestation. However, when beetle populations multiply or when tree vigor declines, the potential for damage is increased greatly.
Many factors lead to decreased tree vigor. Some trees decline normally as they reach maturity and old age. Drought, root diseases, overcrowding and dwarf mistletoe infestations are other natural causes of loss of tree vigor. Human factors such as construction activities and air pollution lead to tree decline also.
Bark beetles typically begin their attacks on trees already weakened by stress and other factors. The insects bore entrance holes through the bark into the cambium layer. Healthy trees normally are able to fight off beetle infestations because the insects are not able to overcome the flow of pitch produced by the trees. lf a tree is weak, however, the adult beetles may successfully reach the surface of the wood under the bark, where they excavate egg-laying chambers and deposit their eggs.
When bark beetles do invade a tree, the first ones emit odors into the air that attract other beetles to the tree, thus intensifying the attack. Large numbers of beetles then concentrate their attack on this tree and others nearby. Because of the massive numbers of beetles involved, healthy trees are sometimes overwhelmed as well as weaker ones.
Trees are killed by bark beetles in two ways. The galleries excavated by adults prior to egg laying, and those formed by feeding larvae, may girdle a tree when present in large numbers. Also, bark beetles carry microscopic fungi that are deposited in the tree's vascular system. These fungi multiply quickly and clog the water conducting tissue of the tree, thus hastening its death.
The first signs of beetle attack on individual trees is the boring dust that comes from the entrance holes and collects in the bark crevices. Sometimes this boring dust is mixed with pitch, and a sticky, waxy material may be found on the ground at the base of the tree and in bark cracks. Masses of pitch sometime emerge from the entrance holes and flow down the trunk of the tree as well. Depending on the particular species of beetle involved, the attacks may be concentrated near the top of the tree or farther down along the trunk.
As the beetle attack progresses, more visible signs begin to appear. The foliage at and above the area of attack begins to fade, passing from a healthy green color to light green, then to straw yellow and finally, to red. Depending on the type of beetle, only the top will be killed or the entire tree may die. Woodpeckers soon discover the beetle populations, and they tear at the bark in order to reach the insect forms found underneath.
The best way to control bark beetles is to keep trees healthy and growing vigorously, thus eliminating possible reservoirs for these insects. Not much can be done for the large numbers of conifers growing in private or national commercial forests except to follow sound silvicultural techniques that include periodic thinning and logging and the proper disposal of slash and debris after a timber sale. Removal of individual beetle-infested trees in commercial forests usually is not practical nor economical.
On small parcels and around homes, trees can be protected from beetle attacks by preventing soil compaction around roots, minimizing the cutting of roots during excavations, keeping beetle-infested firewood away from the premises and removing beetle-infested trees. Although there are chemicals registered for control of bark beetles in California, it is normally impractical to spray most trees because of their large numbers and sizes. Chemicals can be used to spray infested trees that have been cut down, although it is better to destroy them by burning.
Trees that are already infested with bark beetles should be promptly cut down and burned, debarked, sprayed with Lindane or removed from the premises. These actions may help to prevent or reduce the chance of attacks on adjacent trees. To be completely successful, however, all infested trees in an entire area or neighborhood need to be removed.
UC Farm Advisor Don Appleton column
Hundreds of insect species can inhabit the wood of our native and ornamental trees. However, the great majority of cases involve a few basic groups: roundheaded and flatheaded wood borers; bark beetles; carpenter ants; and powderpost beetles.
With few exceptions, insects found within California firewood will not survive indoors and are only capable of infesting well-dried logs with intact bark. The primary problems with firewood insects involve a few species of bark beetles that can develop in firewood and later infest healthy trees.
By far the most important of these insects is the mountain pin beetle, which kills large numbers of trees (primarily Ponderosa pine) in natural forest areas. Elm bark beetles and, rarely, ips beetles also may threaten healthy trees after emerging from firewood. Simple precautions can prevent injury by these firewood insects.
Here are some common firewood and house-log insects:
Wood borers
Wood borers are the most frequently observed insects infesting firewood and house logs. Most common are roundhead borers, also known as long-horned borers or sawyers. Adult stage is a medium to large beetle (1/4 to 2 inches), often with long antennae that can exceed the body length. Common roundheaded borers are gray-brown or with black speckling or deep blue-black.
Because of their long life cycle, borers can be present in wood for a year or longer. They do not emerge and attack healthy trees.
Western species normally do not recycle in the same wood that produced them. Furniture, wall framing or other seasoned woods are not suitable for wood borer attack. Despite producing what may seem like great quantities of dust, borers rarely tunnel extensively enough to cause structural failure. Adult borers found inside the home may look ominous and pinch the skin if handled but are not dangerous.
Bark beetles
Bark beetles commonly infest dead or dying trees and then appear in firewood produced from such trees. Several well-known tree killers and disease vectors are the mountain pine beetle, European elm bark beetle and ips beetles.
Most bark beetles have a one-year life cycle, but a few can complete generations in two-month intervals. Bark beetles cannot reproduce in household wood products.
Powderpost beetles
Powderpost beetle infestations of structural wood and furniture are uncommon but can be serious. Native species of these insects do occur naturally in dead tree limbs and dry seasoned wood.
Carpenter ants
Intact, sound logs are not used by carpenter ants. Rotting, water-damaged wood is used by these ants to nest within, and these logs rarely are utilized for firewood. Native populations of carpenter ants may develop within old, rotting wood that has been stored improperly for long periods.
Termites
Unfounded concern is wide-spread with moving termites in firewood or other wood products. Termites nest underground and under natural conditions rarely infest firewood and timber products. Occasional termites found within this wood do not contain reproductive stages of the termite. Furthermore, the low humidity in houses cause the “stragglers” in firewood to quickly dry out and die.
Damage
Firewood insects do not normally pose any hazards to humans, household furnishings, or plants. This is particularly true for the wood borers, the most conspicuous group of firewood insects. It is hard to witness the activity of borers without feeling a need to take action, but in reality borers speed up the drying process and promote better burning.
Firewood storage and collection
Problems with firewood insects emerging in the home are best handled by storing firewood outdoors until needed. Outdoor storage will greatly slow insect development during the winter and limit the opportunity for insects to emerge inside a home. The occasional insects that do manage to emerge indoors can be controlled by vacuuming.
Storing wood in a manner that accelerates drying also is important in limiting firewood insect infestations. Stack wood so that air readily flows through the pile. Well-dried wood will not invite bark beetle attack, and the drying process can kill many developing bark beetle larvae if already present in the wood. When collected firewood is known to harbor mountain pine beetle or other undesirable species, the best option is to burn the wood before adult beetles begin to emerge in mid-July; elm bark beetles emerge from elm logs in mid-May.
To avoid wood infested by these insects, choose trees for cutting that have been dried for at least one year or that have noticeably loose bark. If log piles are small and located in a sunny area, firewood insects can be killed by covering the pile with a clear plastic tarp. The high temperatures produced will kill many insects inside the wood. Control of insects in logs at the pile’s top may exceed 50 percent, but insects in lower logs generally are not affected.
A more difficult but highly effective means of killing most firewood insects is to remove the bark. Debarking also will prevent re-infestation and speeds drying.
A little historical perspective is always useful.
Apparently, the French were the first to use an underground septic tank system back in the 1870s. By the mid 1880s, two chamber, automatic siphoning septic tanks systems, similar in concept to those used today, were being installed in the United States. Even now, a century plus later, septic tank systems represent a major household wastewater treatment option. About one-third of the homes in the United States use such a system.
A septic-tank system includes an underground tank and leach field. A well-designed and maintained concrete, fiberglass or plastic tank should last about 50 years. Because of corrosion problems, steel tanks may only last a decade or less.
Most typical is a two-compartment septic tank. The size of the tank will vary depending on local codes, but a typical tank for a family of four would have a liquid capacity of 1,500 gallons. On the left is the input pipe from the dwelling, and on the right is the output pipe to the leach field.
The tank is water tight and divided into two semi-compartments. This division allows for improved digestion of the waste materials. When the waste flows into the tank, the heavy solids (primarily feces) sink to the bottom to form a layer of sludge. Lighter materials (like grease, fats and small food particles) float on the surface, forming a layer of scum. Between these two layers is a soup of suspended materials and water-soluble chemicals (urea from urine and many household chemicals).
The division into two chambers increases the efficiency of the system at removing suspended solids.
The second compartment receives its “load,” or liquid mixture, already substantially clarified (much of the solid material has settled out of the liquid).
There is little turbulence in the second chamber because the load enters more slowly. Both these factors allow settling of finer suspended solids than can occur in the first chamber, where incoming material acts to churn up the chamber contents.
Decomposition
The process of digestion in the tank is carried out primarily by microbes excreted from our gastrointestinal tracts (E. coli, for instance). Digestion is an anaerobic process, meaning that oxygen is not required.
Gases (hydrogen sulfide and methane) are produced and must be vented. Basically the same thing that happens in a septic tank also occurs in our guts and in centralized wastewater treatment plants. However, a properly operating system probably is the most efficient of the three. In the septic system, the gases help to stir the sludge, scum and liquid layers, which promotes further digestion of the solids. A properly functioning tank will convert the bulk of solids into liquid waste through the processes of digestion and decomposition.
Potential problems
A septic system is well suited to break down human excrement, and a well designed, properly used and maintained system is one of the best choices for waste disposal in certain areas of the country.
However, there are many potential problems with septic tanks, one of which is that people put a lot more than human waste down their drains.
Even simple food items such as too much grease, cooking oil or fat may greatly reduce the efficiency of the system. Household cleaners, paints and other toxics are also toxic to the bacteria that make the system operate properly. Excesses of these chemicals can cause a severe disruption in the system.
Putting an excess load on the system when more people are in the house (flushing the toilet, taking showers and otherwise running more water into the system) than the system is designed for can result in materials moving through the system too quickly to be decomposed, and contamination problems may result.
There are many considerations to be made before installing a septic tank system. In order for it to function properly, it is important for the surrounding soil to have certain characteristics, the most important of which as to do with permeability. The water-carrying capacity of the soil must be measured before a system can be approved for building a must be known before a proper system can be designed. Usually a percolation test is performed to determine the adequacy of the soil to support a septic system.
Another critical design consideration has to do with the height of the water table. The leach field must have a certain separation from the water table to prevent contamination from occurring. Likewise layers of impermeable soil must be a certain depth below the leach field.
An engineering modification known as the Wisconsin mound system may allow the use of septic tank systems in areas previously considered to be unsuitable because of slowly permeable soils (percolation rates slower than 60 minutes per inch), thin soils over permeable bedrock, and permanent or periodically high groundwater tables.
Basically the only differences are the addition of a pumping station to pump the tank effluent up to a leach field constructed in a mound on top of the natural soil surface. This system is much more expensive than a traditional septic tank system, but offers a viable solution in regions where the soil characteristics preclude the use of a traditional system.
Because the proper functioning of the system is so heavily dependent upon the user, there is a tremendous problem particularly back East, with groundwater contamination as a result of inadequate design, use or maintenance. This contamination is predominately microbiological. Microbes, both bacteria and viruses, may remain viable much longer underground that when they are exposed to the elements. They are small enough to travel with the plume of percolating water from the leach field and contaminate drinking water sources, either groundwater or wells.
Septic load
The average household of three uses 150,000 gallons of water per year; a family of five may use as much as an acre foot, or 325,900 gallons per year. Of this, about one-half is used indoors and thus goes down the drain into the septic system. In other words, between 200 and 400 gallons of water (plus waste) goes into a family’s septic system daily.
If the system is not properly designed to accommodate these flows, then the sewage will not be properly treated before flowing into the leach field. Problems also will arise if the leach field is in soil that cannot absorb the level of flow generated, or if the soil does not retain the liquid long enough for additional decomposition to occur.
Contaminants
The typical sources of wastewater entering a septic system are toilets (about 38 percent), laundry (about 25 percent), showers/bath (about 22 percent), and sinks/other (about 15 percent). The potential contaminants must all be introduced into the system from one of these sources. The principal contaminant-type of concern is microbiological (pathogenic bacteria and viruses).
Soils that are very permeable also have a small capacity to absorb effluent from the leach field, and this capacity may be quickly exceeded if the system is not designed to take this into account.
Not allowing for soil with little capacity to absorb moisture is a prime reason groundwater contamination occurs, because pollutants tend to move rapidly through the soil with little chance for decomposition.
The typical leach field will be perpetually wet. This moisture encourages the growth of a “slime mat” composed of a variety of microscopic plants and animals. This slime mat is the final clarifier of the wastewater, pulling out leftover nutrients for their own use. They also will decompose, to varying degrees, certain synthetic organic chemicals such as some pesticides and solvents.
Many environmental factors influence the movement and fate of microbes from the septic system through the soil to groundwater. Once out of the French drains in the leach field, pathogenic bacteria will have to compete for food with soil microbes and the microbes in the slime mat underlying the leach field.
Phosphorous, a contaminant introduced from many laundry detergents, typically is not a groundwater contamination problem because it is readily taken up by iron, aluminum and calcium naturally occurring in the soil. Urea is converted by the septic system flora into nitrate and ammonium. Nitrate may be a groundwater contaminant particularly in soils that are very permeable. Nitrate moves readily through most soils dissolved in water.
Metals pose interesting problems. Possible contaminants include lead, arsenic, iron, tin, zinc, copper and cadmium. They are not typically a concern in septic systems.
Movement of many organic contaminants such as solvents, cleaners, degreasers and pesticides through soils is not well understood. There is certainly the possibility for organics, such as solvents, to move with water through the soil to groundwater. Also possible are absorption onto soil, decomposition by soil microbes or uptake by microbes or plants.
By Ken Churches at the Farm Advisor’s office, University of California Cooperative Extension, Calaveras County
To the untrained eye, the Mother Lode seems to have all the ingredients for a massive landslide: homes perched along hillsides, soil saturated by huge amounts of rainfall.
But experts say the likelihood of slides here is slim.
Differences in terrain, rainfall and vegetation all factor in, several area geologists and engineers said.
Most homes in Tuolumne and Calaveras counties rest on either granite or metamorphic bedrock. Those are stronger than the sedimentary bedrock that gave way this week in La Conchita, south of Santa Barbara, said Jeff Tolhurst, geology professor at Columbia College. And because the Sierra Nevada is a relatively young mountain range, there's simply less soil to slide off its slopes, he added.
In Southern California, record rainfall has saturated much of the soil. And with less vegetation, the water there is not absorbed as quickly as it would be in the foothills, said Tolhurst. “They’re not used to getting rain like we are,” Bynum added.
Still, that doesn't mean mudslides don’t occur in Gold Country. In 1987, in fact, a massive slide washed out Parrotts Ferry Road below Columbia. It was closed for several months for reconstruction.
Also, rockslides have regularly blocked Stockton Road below down-town Sonora.
“Anytime you have steep terrain, anytime you're building on steep grades, there's potential for slides,” said Chuck Patterson, a Sonora civil engineer.
Patterson and Tolhurst said the likelihood of a large slide increases each year as more roads and homes are built in the foothills.
Tolhurst noted that torrential rains during the El Nino winter from 1997 to 1998, caused a two-mile long slide near Dorrington off Highway 4, damming the Stanislaus River for over an hour. Another large slide occurred in the Carson-lceberg Wilderness near Sword Lake. And Yosemite National park has experienced several rockslides.
Angels Camp City Engineer Gary Ghio said uniform building standards have kept foothill homes, both new and old, safe from major slides. To prevent erosion, Ghio said, builders are often required to install retaining walls or horizontal drainage pipes, preventing water runoff from dragging dirt downhill. Home builders also must compact the dirt surrounding new homes, making that dirt 90 percent as solid as rock, he said. Builders and residents can add vegetation with a strong root system to further prevent erosion near homes, Ghio added.
Several minor rock and mud slides have inconvenienced motorists in the Mother Lode this week. Rocks fell onto southbound Highway 49 Monday morning north of New Melones Reservoir. Those rocks were cleared the same day. Near the town of Tuolumne, Buchanan Road was closed yesterday due to falling mud and boulders. The road is expected to reopen Friday afternoon, Bynum said. No injuries were reported in either slide.
Even with strict building codes and detailed engineering, no home is completely safe from forces of nature, Ghio said.
By Chris Nichols, Union Democrat, 2005
Low-cost home improvements:
- Install energy-saving shower heads and faucet aerators in your home.
It will reduce hot water use and water heating costs by 10 to 16 percent without affecting comfort.
- Fix defective plumbing or dripping faucets.
Water faucet drips cause water loss of up to 212 gallons a month. Hot water drips waste energy as well.
No-cost energy saving suggestions:
- Save 5 to 10 percent of heating costs by setting your thermostat in winter at 68 degrees or lower during the day, health permitting, and at 55 degrees for the night or when you will be away for more than four hours.
- Open drapes on sunny days to help warm the rooms.
- Do only full loads in the clothes washer, clothes dryer and dishwasher.
- Clean the dryer lint trap after each use, and check the dryer vent for clogging. When possible, dry clothes on a line.
- Close the damper when not using the fireplace and turn heaters down when using the fireplace.
- Lower the water heater temperature to 120 degrees (140 degrees if you have a dishwasher without its own heating element).
- Use the energy saver, air-dry cycle of the dishwasher, or, if allowed, open the door and let the dishes dry naturally.
- Use the self-cleaning oven feature only when necessary.
- Start the self-cleaning cycle immediately after the oven is used to take advantage of heat already there.
One little draft can make a giant hole in your heating budget, and a there are dozens of ways cold air can find its way into a house. As soon as you feel a draft in the house, you should track it down and fix it.
You'll save more than enough in one year to pay for the cost of replacing weather-stripping around windows and doors. Check your doors and windows every year. After a few cold winters, weather-stripping peels away from the windows and door jambs.''
Insulate all exterior electrical outlets.
Access doors to the attic should have gaskets to prevent heat from escaping into the attic and outside.
Filters for central heating systems should be changed. lf you notice some vents aren't producing heat, call a professional to check out the venting system.
Cover the water heater with a blanket (unless it is one of the new, already insulated heters) during winter months and add a timer so the heater will only work during the times people normally expect to use it.
Make sure the roofs, gutters and downspouts are clean and free of standing water and debris. Otherwise, they can cause serious problems, including rot along the roof lines and corners of homes, leading to leaks and drafts. Many people don't realize how much damage a dirty roof can cause. When the roof is full of debris, it has a tendency to hold water and moisture, and that can cause a leak.
Shut off the water to swamp coolers, drain them and cover them tightly.
Make sure door thresholds are in good repair and properly caulked. If not, rainwater can get into the house and seriously damage flooring and carpeting.
Winterizing your house can protect it from damage and save dollars in heating costs.
lf you have moved recently, experts recommend that you ask your neighbors how they go about preparing for winter. They are the most knowledgeable experts you can find about how severe the winters are in your new neighborhood.
Here are some tips The American Association of Realtors recommends for most areas:
Seal leaks
- Add or replace worn weather-stripping around doors and windows.
- Replace worn door stops at the bottom of doors.
- lf you have them, install storm doors and windows. Don't forget to winterize basement windows.
- Replace old windows with energy efficient windows.
- Use caulking and weather-stripping around entry points for all pipes and ducts that travel through exterior walls.
- Install insulating kits behind electrical plugs on walls with exterior sides.
Insulation
- Ask the staff at a local home improvement center how much insulation is recommended in your area, then check your attic insulation to make sure it's adequate.
- Some homes benefit from additional wall insulation. Home improvement center employees can explain types of insulation that can be added to existing walls.
Heating system
- Have a professional do a routine check of your furnace before cold weather arrives.
- Vacuum vents and other heating components.
- If it has one, replace the furnace filter. Make future replacements as needed or directed by your furnace manufacturer.
- Consider installing a setback thermostat. It regulates the temperature, allowing the home to be cooler when you are away or asleep.
- Fill oil or propane tanks.
Fireplace
- Have the chimney inspected and cleaned.
- Close the fireplace damper when not in use.
- Study literature by the people who sell and repair wood-burning firepIaces and gas-log fireplaces.
The Roof
- Replace loose shingles.
- Make sure the flashing around the chimney or vent pipes is watertight.
- Check bricks and mortar to see if repairs are needed.
- Install a screen at the top of the chimney to keep leaves and other items out.
- Trim tree limbs that are hanging over or touching the roof.
Plumbing
- Take care of known issues with pipes that freeze. Heat tape can be used to keep them warm during extremely cold weather.
- Learn how to turn off water at its source so you can stop leaks as soon as you find them.
- Drain water from outdoor faucets when you think a hard freeze is coming.
Outdoors
- Give decks an additional coat of sealer.
- Check the foundation and siding for cracks or gaps and repair as necessary.
- Drain garden hoses, roll them up, and store them inside.
- Close and cover the swimming pool.
- Prune shrubbery and add mulch to perennial flower beds.
- Cover outdoor furniture or store it inside.
Collect emergency supplies
- Store candles, matches, a small butane lighter, flashlights and batteries.
- Fill propane tank or buy charcoal for outdoor grills.
- Keep battery operated radio or weather radio and buy extra batteries.
- Keep handy a snow blower, shovels and chemicals to melt snow in the high country. Leaf blowers come in handy at any elevation.
- Store bottled water and non-perishable food to last a few days. Be sure you have a hand-operated can opener.
- Store paper plates, plastic eating utensils and paper towels.
- Gather extra firewood and a generator and fuel for it. Kerosene and kerosene heater (use with carbon monoxide monitoring strips).
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